Audi/VW 2.0T EA888 Gen 3 TSI Ultimate Maintenance Guide

The Audi/VW 2.0T Gen 3 TSI engine has been available in the US since around 2015. In the time that has since passed, we've worked on our fair share of them in various Audi and VW vehicles. Due to the extensive service and maintenance work we've performed on this great engine, we've learned quite a bit about it and the various issues that you could encounter during your ownership. We've put together this handy guide so we can share our knowledge of the EA888 2.0T Gen 3 TSI engine. In this guide we'll cover the main issues that plague this engine and also some maintenance and service tips to help keep your Gen 3 TSI engine running strong.

This guide is mainly focused on the required maintenance, service and problem areas of the EA888 Gen 3 TSI engine. We will cover the major issues that you may encounter during your ownership as well as the available solutions for them.

Remember, unlike other online part sellers, we don't just sling parts at you, we also actually work on these engines. We operate not one but two full time service shops, so the information within this guide is based on real, hands on experience. We ultimately put this guide together to help you learn more, not as a sales pitch to buy more parts from us.

If you still have more Gen 3 TSI questions after reading this guide, please feel free to contact us.

Vehicles Covered
The EA888 Gen 3 TSI engine has been used in several Audi and VW models and generations including VW Mk6, Mk7/Mk7.5, 8V, 8S, B9 and various other MQB chassis vehicles. However, the information in this guide will cover just about every Audi or VW vehicle equipped with either the 1.8T or 2.0T Gen 3 TSI engine. This includes both transverse and longitudinally mounted engine arrangements. Please note however that some solutions (such as catch cans) may only exist only for specific versions of the Gen 3 TSI engine.

Guide Contents:

Air Intake Filters

If you haven't installed an aftermarket intake system yet, you'll want to keep an eye on your factory air filter from time to time. Audi and VW typically recommend replacement of the factory intake air filter every 60k miles. While this may be adequate for some people, if you drive your car hard or live in an area with a high amount of dust or airborne debris, you'll want to check it sooner than that.

What Filter do I need?
Unfortunately there are far too many different vehicle models that came equipped with the Gen 3 TSI engine to list all of the possible air intake filters here. Instead, we recommend selecting your vehicle model on this page and visiting the air filter category to see all of the intake air filters we have available. We typically offer both factory replacement and high performance drop-in air filters for most vehicles.

Oil Changes

10k Oil Change Intervals Are Bad
VW and Audi recommend a 10k mile oil change interval for the EA888 Gen3 TSI engine. They mostly did this to compete with other automotive manufacturers that were starting to advertise 10k oil change intervals. While the oil itself will definitely outlast 10k miles, it's still not a good idea to use this interval for several reasons:

First, the Gen3 TSI engine is a direct injection engine. Because the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber, it's easier for gasoline to get into the engine oil. This combining of oil and gasoline can lead to sludge build up and deposits as the gasoline breaks down the oil.

Second, due to the carbon build up issue these engines suffer from, more carbon is deposited into the oil. This can lead to sludge or deposit build up in the oil system if it is not cleaned out.

Third, while the oil filters used in these engines are high quality and do a great job of filtering out contaminants, they can only do that for so long. As gasoline passes through them and as they continue to catch more carbon material, they degrade and become further clogged with debris, effectively reducing their effective filtering capability.

In our experience, we've found that engines that have their oils changed every 5k miles tend to have less stress on many of their timing components. This can mean the difference of an engine requiring the timing chain to be replaced at 150k miles instead of needing to be replaced at 120k miles. You can also help improve the lifespan of your timing chain by incorporating LIQUI MOLY MoS2 into your oil changes.

What Oil Do I Need?
The Gen3 TSI uses two different oil specs: VW 502 or 508. VW 502 oil is available in a variety of formulations from LIQUI MOLY, but the most popular is their Leicht Lauf 5w40 oil. Alternatively, we also have a 5w40 oil change kit that uses LIQUI MOLY Molygen oil if you need some extra leak detection capabilities. VW 508 is currently available from LIQUI MOLY in their Top Tec 6200 0w20 oil.

You can easily identify which you need by checking the label on the radiator cowl in your engine bay. Alternatively, our oil change kit listings below will have an application guide to help identify which kit is correct for you. Most 2015-2018 vehicles use the 502 spec and most 2018-2021 vehicles use the 508 spec.

What about Oil Additives?
LIQUI MOLY has several great additives that you can use to prolong the lifespan of your engine:

LIQUI MOLY MoS2 - An anti-friction compound that makes everything smooth and quiets things down.

LIQUI MOLY Motor Oil Saver - Helps to rejuvenate old oil seals and aids in sealing leaks.

LIQUI MOLY Cera T ec - A more advanced anti-friction compound that can also improve compression.

Please make sure that you are only using one of these in your oil system at a time

Timing Chains

The Issue
While VW did update the chains used in the Gen 3 TSI engine, they are still prone to stretching. Because of this, the chains will need to be replaced at some point. We've found that the stretch typically hits the maximum safe level between 120k and 150k miles.

There is no set interval for this service, so our recommendation is to use a tool such as OBDeleven or VCDS (VAG-COM) to check the amount of chain stretch your engine currently has.

For OBDeleven, select the engine/ecu module, go to live data and search for camshaft adaptation intake bank 1, phase position.

For VCDS, select the engine control module, then select measuring blocks and choose block 93.

The rule of thumb is that if you get a readout that is showing more 4 degrees in either direction, your timing chain absolutely needs to be replaced as soon as possible. If you would like us to check this for you, please feel free to contact us and we will be more than happy to take care of it for you.

The Solution
Unfortunately there is no way around it; if your timing chain is stretched, it will need to be replaced. If you are local to one of our shops, we highly recommend setting up an appointment to have it replaced. If you would like to get an estimate before making an appointment, please feel free to contact us and one of our service departments will send you one.

If you are attempting the DIY route, just know that replacing the timing chains on the Gen 3 TSI engine will take some time, skill and proper tools. Remember, there is more to this service than simply replacing a single chain. There are also several guides, gaskets, seals, covers and lots of hardware that will need to be replaced at the same time. We're not kidding when we say that this service is probably one of the more difficult services to perform on an engine. If you do choose to do this yourself, please take your time and triple check everything. You'll also want to make absolutely sure that you have a good torque wrench to tighten everything within spec.

We sell both a timing chain kit and all of the individual timing components separately if needed. If you are attempting to do this service yourself, we highly recommend picking up the kit since it will have every part you need.

Prolonging Timing Chain Life
If you read the section about oil changes above, you'll note that we mentioned that 10k oil change intervals are not good for your timing chains. Sticking to 5k oil change intervals goes a long way towards reducing wear and strain on the timing chain system.

LIQUI MOLY also makes some anti-friction additives that can greatly help to increase the longevity of your timing chain components:

Cera Tec reduces friction and wear due to ceramic compounds that withstand extremely high chemical and thermal loads. It also prevents direct metal-to-metal contact, thus increasing your timing chain's service life.

MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment ensures immediate friction and wear reduction, adds an extremely protective and pressure-resistant boundary layer with low friction and lubricates during cold starts to prevent damage from lack of oil. Contributes to lower fuel consumption, longer engine life and less noise.

While both are great additives for reducing friction, please do not use them at the same time. We recommend using Cera Tec for your first oil change of the year, and then using MoS2 every following oil change.

Water Pump

Unfortunately, even though many things were fixed with the 3rd generation of the TSI engine, the water pump was not one of them. We've found that on average, the Gen 3 TSI water pump will need to be replaced at least once during it's lifespan. Unfortunately there is no set interval for when it will fail. Just know that it will fail at some point.

Why it Fails
The failure can typically be attributed to the thermostat housing becoming warped, which causes it to not be properly sealed to the engine block. When this happens, the coolant is able to seep or leak out the sides.

The Symptoms
Fortunately, the water pump in the Gen 3 TSI does not typically fail in a spectacular manner that will leave you stranded on the side of the road. Usually you'll get a few warning signs that it needs to be replaced long before that happens:

Coolant Smell in Cabin
If you start to notice a sweet smell when your engine is running, it's typically coolant that has gotten outside of the cooling system. If you pop your hood, chances are that you'll see exactly what we describe below.

Leaking or Seeping Coolant
It's not uncommon to see coolant seeping or leaking from where the pump is attached to the engine block. This is the most common sign that your water pump needs to be replaced.

Waterpump or Thermostat?
The Gen3 TSI engine waterpump may look like one part in some photos. In fact, it is made up of two separate parts: the thermostat assembly and the water pump itself. While you can replace them separately, due to the way that the pump fails, you'll want to replace the entire assembly. This is also partially because it takes just as much effort to replace the housing as it does the pump assembly. After all, why not replace everything in one service rather than replace the housing only to have to replace the pump when it fails down the road. This is why the kits that we sell all include a complete assembly with both the thermostat housing and the waterpump.

New Water Pump Installation Tip
It's very important to thoroughly clean the surface of the engine when replacing the water pump and thermostat assembly. Over our many years replacing water pumps on these engines, we have noticed that failure to clean the mating surface where the thermostat housing sits against the engine can cause leaking. Save yourself some time and money by taking the time to properly clean and prep the mating surface of the engine before installing a new water pump.

New Coolant
When replacing the water pump assembly, it's important to use new coolant. We typically use high quality Pentosin G13 coolant when performing this service and offer it with all of our water pump service kits. This coolant arrives in concentrated form and will need to be cut evenly with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water.

If you are in need of a new water pump, thermostat housing, coolant, or a complete replacement service kit, please check out some our options below:

PCV System

Another area that was somewhat improved over previous generations is the PCV system. However, while the Gen 3 TSI PCV does not fail as much as on the Gen 1 or Gen 2 engine, it definitely still fails. Also, if you are into high performance driving on track, you will quickly start to see the limitations of the factory PCV system (see video below for more information).

The Symptoms
When it is starting to fail, you may notice some odd screeching sounds coming from the engine bay. You may also get a CEL code for P0171 (engine running lean) or P0507 (idle too high). A rough idle and misfires can occur as well. You may also see oil smoke from your tail pipe.

The worst issue that you might experience is a rear main seal failure. If you see oil seeping out between the engine and transmission assembly, there's a good chance that your rear main seal is failing. Once this happens, the only way to replace it is to completely remove your transmission and replace the seal.

Why it Fails
The PCV valve contains a rubber diaphragm that helps regulate vacuum pressure. Over time, this diaphragm will tear and oil will start to pass through the valve freely. There is also a check valve housed within the PCV that can become stuck and allow crankcase gasses to flow freely when it shouldn't.

The Fix
The easiest way to fix this issue is to simply replace the PCV valve with the latest revision. However, there are other solutions available including upgrading to a Gen 4 TSI PCV valve or a catch can setup. Rather than repeat ourselves, please check out the section on carbon buildup to see our warnings as well as links to the many catch cans we offer for the Gen 3 TSI engine.

Our recommendation is to upgrade to the Gen 4 TSI PCV as it has been substantially improved and can easily be retrofitted to the Gen3 TSI engine with only a few parts. This is especially beneficial for performance driving enthusiasts, since the Gen 3 PCV system can also cause issues when heavy acceleration or braking occurs. We have built a complete kit just for this conversion (see below). Those looking for even more technical information on the Gen3 and Gen4 TSI PCV system can also check out this page.

For those looking for even more information on the Gen 3 TSI PCV system and the benefits of upgrading to the Gen 4 TSI PCV system, please check out this video. This video covers a lot of in-depth PCV information and will be very beneficial to those that heavily track their vehicles.

Cam Girdle

The TSI engines differ from previous VW engines in that they use a liquid gasket sealant instead of a physical valve cover gasket. This is because they do not have a simple valve cover. The cover is actually a cam girdle and is a functional part of the engine. Due to this difference, you cannot simply remove the cam girdle and install a new rubber valve cover gasket. You must instead seal it using a special anaerobic sealant.

Since the cam girdle is constantly under stress from hot oil and crank case gasses, the sealant will eventually fail. When this happens, you'll typically start to see oil seeping or leaking from underneath the cam girdle assembly.

You might have noticed that there are more parts in our kit compared to our competitor's kits. This is because their kits are not put together by people that regularly service the TSI engine.

We do offer a very basic re-sealing kit for those that want to take their own chance and not replace any of the other gaskets and seals associated with this job. Yes, technically you might get lucky with simply re-sealing the cam girdle and replacing the cam girdle bolts. However, you run the risk of engine damage by not replacing the other gaskets and seals that should be replaced during this service.

You also might have noticed that we don't use normal RTV or Dirko sealant with in our kits. We don't include it because it's technically not the correct sealant for this job. Once again, other online stores include this because they don't actually perform service work. We only use sealant from VW. Unlike normal RTV (Dirko), the VW sealant is thicker and solidfies as well.

The parts we include in our kits have been installed thousands of times by our own expert technicians and are proven to work, unlike many of the other kits assembled by companies that do not actually work on these vehicles.

At the end of the day, it's your time and money. Why not complete the service the same way that the professionals do and guarantee that you won't have any issues in the future?

Rear Main Seal

If you thought that we'd be done with carryover issues from the previous generation TSI engines, unfortunately we are not. The rear main seal, while improved over the Gen 1 TSI design, does still occasionally fail.

The Issue
If you read the PCV System section above, you'll note that when the PCV valve fails, it causes the rear main seal to fail by forcing excess boost pressure into the crankcase. This excess pressure has to go somewhere and usually makes its way to the rear main seal. Once it has failed, it must be replaced or catastrophic damage will follow.

The Symptom
There is usually one major symptom of the rear main seal failing: oil. If you start to see oil being dripped under the middle of the car, take a moment to safely go under your car and carefully identify where it is coming from. If it is seeping or leaking from between the transmission and engine, there's a very good chance that it is from the rear main seal failing.

The Solution
Unfortunately there is only one solution to this issue: replacing the rear main seal. If you do not replace the seal, it will eventually blow out and all of your oil will fill the transmission. If you have a manual transmission, you run the risk of motor oil being sprayed onto your clutch assembly.

This is definitely one of those types of jobs that you need to stop and think if you are truly capable of doing it yourself. Replacing the rear main seal will require the transmission to be removed, which can be a difficult task if you don't know what you're doing or have access to the proper equipment. Remember, if you live in the DMV area and need to have us perform this service for you, please feel free to request a service appointment.

Carbon Build-up

The Issue
The EA888 Gen 3 TSI engine, like the versions before it, utilizes direct injection technology in its fueling. This means that instead of gasoline being sprayed into the intake ports on the head and onto the intake valves (thereby cleaning them), it is instead sprayed directly into the combustion chamber. While this provides far more precise timing for more power and better fuel economy, it also has a major drawback when it comes to carbon build-up. Many European versions of this engine utilize multi-port injection so that this issue doesn't occur, but in North America, we're not so lucky. Instead, the Gen 3 TSI engine we received is prone to carbon build-up on the intake valves.

The Symptoms
The most noticeable symptom of carbon build-up is a rough idle, especially during cold starts. If the carbon build-up is substantive enough, your engine may feel as though it is having a slight mis-fire such as when spark plugs need to be replaced. It can even register as a mis-fire with the ECU and cause a CEL to occur. A slight loss of power and a decrease in fuel economy may be experienced as well.

It's important to note that there is no set interval for when this service should be performed. If you regularly take your car in to a good Audi or VW specialist shop for service, you can ask them to take a look at your intake valves if you think your engine is experiencing carbon build-up. They can take a borescope (snake camera) and put it into the valves to check them out.

In addition, if you are the type to drive your car hard on a daily basis, you have a greater chance that you won't need a carbon cleaning as soon as someone that just cruises down the highway each day. This is because carbon can be burned off when engine temps increase under hard driving. However, you cannot completely get rid of the carbon this way, there will still be some build-up that remains on the intake valves. In some situations this build-up can become harder when it is essentially "baked" more in the hot engine.

The Solution
Unfortunately the only way to properly clean carbon build-up is to remove the intake manifold and physically remove the build-up. We've found that the most effective way to perform this cleaning is by media blasting the valves and vacuuming the carbon out. In the past we have cleaned the valves using various chemicals and cleaning agents, but quickly found that it is not as effective as media blasting.

If you're the weekend warrior DIY type, it is entirely possible to do this service yourself, but you will need to invest in a media blasting tool, blasting media (such as walnut shells), a good air compressor, a shop vacuum, this 034Motorsport direct injection cleaning tool and some patience.

If you don't have the equipment (or feel like buying equipment just for this one service), the free time available, or if you're just not that into DIY stuff and happen to be in the DMV area, please use this form to request an appointment at one of our shops. We've performed this carbon cleaning service on literally thousands of TSI engines and are more than happy to assist you with cleaning yours.

Carbon Build-up Prevention
While it's not possible to completely prevent carbon build-up from occurring (unless you decide to retrofit multi-port injection to your engine and install ECU tuning software that is compatible with it), you can do some things to help slow it from happening through a few methods.

Under normal operation, oil vapor is mostly separated within the PCV valve and the remaining excess crankcase gasses are then pushed back through the intake manifold. Because there is still oil present in the gasses when it is pushed into the intake manifold, it ends up find its way onto the intake valves, burns, and contributes to the carbon build-up. You can drastically cut down on the amount of blow-by by installing a catch can. While this is a good solution that will slow the build-up, please note that you will encounter issues if you live in an area that regularly encounters freezing or below freezing temperatures.

Alternatively, while most cleaning agents don't do a great job of breaking down the carbon once it has formed, LIQUI MOLY has developed a throttle body cleaner that can help to slow carbon from building up. This cleaner includes a flexible hose so that you can bypass the intake manifold and spray it directly onto the intake valves where the build-up occurs. While this can't completely prevent build-up from happening, it does go a long way towards slowing down the need for another valve cleaning service.

LIQUI MOLY Pro-Line Throttle Valve Cleaner

Intake Manifold

While the intake manifold has been improved over the design used on the Gen 1 and Gen 2 TSI engines, they do still occasionally fail. The main failure point is the intake flap system integrated into the manifold. This flap system is designed to regulate the velocity of air entering the intake ports from the intake plenum.

The failure most commonly occurs when the arm that actuates the flap motor fails. Unfortunately VW does not sell replacement parts to repair the intake manifold. Instead, you must replace the entire intake manifold. Fortunately, this isn't an incredibly difficult part to replace, typically taking the average DIYer a few hours to replace. If you have a free afternoon, some basic hand tools and the right parts, you can definitely tackle this job yourself.

Replacement Intake Manifolds:

Ignition System

This is one area of the Gen 3 TSI that we've found to be somewhat consistent and reasonably reliable. The ignition coil packs tend to last a fair amount of time before needing replacement, as do the spark plugs.

Ignition Coil Packs
These typically last around 60-80k miles on vehicles that are occasionally driven in a performance oriented manner (otherwise known as hooning around on a backroad). They will last another 10-20k miles or more if you mostly spend your time cruising on the highway.

If you are experiencing regular misfires or getting an EPC light on, there is a good chance that your coilpacks are in need of replacement. This is by far the most common reason for experiencing misfires, nothing else comes close.

We offer Gen 3 TSI ignition coil packs as both APR and OE replacement versions. Due to their extremely high quality and slight improvements, APR ignition coil packs are our shop favorite.

Spark Plugs
The replacement interval for these will depend on the spark plugs used. If you are using factory equipped NGK or the RS7 NGK plugs, you can expect to get about 30-40k miles out of them. However, if you plan on using the NGK Racing spark plugs, expect to change them out every 10-15k miles.

Fuel System

The fuel system of the Gen 3 TSI shouldn't cause you a lot of issues when properly maintained. It's also a fairly low-maintenance fuel system. It's actually so low maintenance that there isn't even a replaceable fuel filter (it's integrated into the low pressure fuel pump).

That being said, you can still make sure that your fuel system stays in good working order by using the following additives:

LIQUI MOLY Pro-Line Gasoline System Cleaner
This is a great additive for keeping deposits from forming within your fuel tank and lines. It also helps to keep the injectors clean as well. Since there is no replaceable fuel filter, this additive goes a long way to making sure your fuel system remains clean. We recommend using it once every oil change interval for best results.

Click or tap here to check it out

LIQUI MOLY DIJectron
While the Gasoline System Cleaner is designed as a general fuel system cleaner, the DIJectron is specifically designed for use within direct injection fuel systems. It's main specialty is to help break down contaminants or build-up on direct injection fuel injector tips and prevent them from forming again.

Click or tap here to check it out

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